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REPAIRS
MAINTENANCE
Spring Maintenance
By:  Andrea Petralia
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REPAIRS
MAINTENANCE
Spring Maintenance
By:  Andrea Petralia
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Regular and consistent boat maintenance is the key to owning a boat that is safe and reliable, has a minimum of unexpected repair bills, looks good and retains its resale value.

Whatever the vessel, it’s a continuous process requiring a constant eye on anything that may need attention, including engines, systems, fittings, chafe in ropes and potential sail damage.

To avoid corrosion and decay, your vessel should be washed thoroughly with freshwater immediately following any outing.
Regular and consistent boat maintenance is the key to owning a boat that is safe and reliable, has a minimum of unexpected repair bills, looks good and retains its resale value.

Whatever the vessel, it’s a continuous process requiring a constant eye on anything that may need attention, including engines, systems, fittings, chafe in ropes and potential sail damage.

To avoid corrosion and decay, your vessel should be washed thoroughly with freshwater immediately following any outing.

Annually, in April we have our yacht pulled out to clean the bottom, apply antifouling and inspect all the below waterline components.  The anodes that protect the propeller, shaft and P-bracket from galvanic action.  Also inspect the cutlass bearing that supports the propeller shaft either at the P-bracket, or where it exits the hull, for wear.  There shouldn’t be more than about 1mm of lateral or vertical movement of the shaft here.

If your yacht has a saildrive transmission unit, inspect the anode that sits just ahead of the propeller, as it needs regular inspection and replacement.  Skipping this part can cause the entire outer casing of the unit to succumb to corrosion.

Saildrive units should have the oil inspected for evidence of water ingress while the boat is ashore, we renew the oil annually. If any water is present in the oil, a milky substance, it means the oil seals around the shaft that exits the drive underwater need to be replaced.
Annually, in April we have our yacht pulled out to clean the bottom, apply antifouling and inspect all the below waterline components.  The anodes that protect the propeller, shaft and P-bracket from galvanic action.  Also inspect the cutlass bearing that supports the propeller shaft either at the P-bracket, or where it exits the hull, for wear.  There shouldn’t be more than about 1mm of lateral or vertical movement of the shaft here.

If your yacht has a saildrive transmission unit, inspect the anode that sits just ahead of the propeller, as it needs regular inspection and replacement.  Skipping this part can cause the entire outer casing of the unit to succumb to corrosion.

Saildrive units should have the oil inspected for evidence of water ingress while the boat is ashore, we renew the oil annually.  If any water is present in the oil, a milky substance, it means the oil seals around the shaft that exits the drive underwater need to be replaced.

Rudder bearings should be checked, having minimal movement when pushing the bottom of the rudder blade from side to side. Any play in the steering, whether as a result of worn bearings or other problems, should also be rectified as quickly as possible.

On a boat with wheel steering, the entire mechanism should be checked for wear or other damage.

The keel of sailing boats should be inspected for any obvious grounding damage – and for any evidence of movement between the keel and hull.

Any indication of problems here should then be investigated by a surveyor and repaired in accordance with their recommendations.

Rudder bearings should be checked, having minimal movement when pushing the bottom of the rudder blade from side to side. Any play in the steering, whether as a result of worn bearings or other problems, should also be rectified as quickly as possible.  On a boat with wheel steering, the entire mechanism should be checked for wear or other damage.

The keel of sailing boats should be inspected for any obvious grounding damage – and for any evidence of movement between the keel and hull. Any indication of problems here should then be investigated by a surveyor and repaired in accordance with their recommendations.


Through-hull fittings are an important step. We check that each one operates smoothly – if not, it's dismantled, freed up and greased.

Check for evidence of the dezincification that might seriously compromise the strength of the fitting.  Scrape back a small area of antifouling on each one and sand away the very top layer of oxidized metal with a thumb-sized piece of emery paper.

A bright yellow color indicates the metalwork is in good condition. A pinkish hue indicates damage due to dezincification. If the fittings are in good order, prime the exposed area with an appropriate primer before having the antifouling applied.
Through-hull fittings are an important step.  We check that each one operates smoothly – if not, it is dismantled, freed up and greased.  Check for evidence of the dezincification that might seriously compromise the strength of the fitting.

Scrape back a small area of antifouling on each one and sand away the very top layer of oxidized metal with a thumb-sized piece of emery paper.

A bright yellow color indicates the metalwork is in good condition. A pinkish hue indicates damage due to dezincification. If the fittings are in good order, prime the exposed area with an appropriate primer before having the antifouling applied.


While the stern gear or saildrive must be attended to with the boat out of the water, engine servicing can take place either ashore or afloat.

Since we use our boat year-long, we do not winterize it.  We utilize the calendar in gmail with recurring tasks marked with the necessary frequency and action lists.

Our annual servicing takes place throughout the year, replacing fuel filters, the raw water pump impeller, drive belts, plus the engine oil and filter, consulting the documentation for the unit of our boat to ascertain whether any additional checks or procedures are required.

While the stern gear or saildrive must be attended to with the boat out of the water, engine servicing can take place either ashore or afloat.

Since we use our boat year-long, we do not winterize it.  We utilize the calendar in gmail with recurring tasks marked with the necessary frequency and action lists.

Our annual servicing takes place throughout the year, replacing fuel filters, the raw water pump impeller, drive belts, plus the engine oil and filter, consulting the documentation for the unit of our boat to ascertain whether any additional checks or procedures are required.


Most running rigging has a long life, however on cruising yachts, it can easily be damaged by chafe. It’s worth keeping a constant eye open for new issues, especially where halyards pass over sheaves.  Examine splices in the ends of halyards and other lines regularly to check whether there are any signs of movement that could indicate the splice is beginning to fail.


Early each season, time is spent ensuring sheaves are running freely, winches are properly serviced and that the windlass works as intended.  We consult the manufacturer’s manual for each item of equipment, as service procedures can vary widely for many similar items.

For example, some headsail furling gear has self-lubricating bearings, while other models have stainless steel ball bearings that require periodic re-greasing.  I’ve always had luck locating the relevant manuals for my boat on-line.   
Most running rigging has a long life, however on cruising yachts, it can easily be damaged by chafe. It’s worth keeping a constant eye open for new issues, especially where halyards pass over sheaves.  Examine splices in the ends of halyards and other lines regularly to check whether there are any signs of movement that could indicate the splice is beginning to fail.


Early each season, time is spent ensuring sheaves are running freely, winches are properly serviced and that the windlass works as intended.  We consult the manufacturer’s manual for each item of equipment, as service procedures can vary widely for many similar items.

For example, some headsail furling gear has self-lubricating bearings, while other models have stainless steel ball bearings that require periodic re-greasing.  I’ve always had luck locating the relevant manuals for my boat on-line.   


We service our winches at the beginning and end of each season.  Frequent servicing is important to their reliability and free-running, ensuring 100% performance with a minimum of unwanted friction.

There are two things that ensure the integrity of a boat’s standing rigging. The tuning must be correct so that the spar is properly supported.  Poorly adjusted standing rigging can impair performance and handling, along with threaten the security of the rig.

Next a visual check for hairline cracks that can cause corrosion.  Stainless steel rigging wire should be inspected at the ends, including the swages that join the wire to its terminals, spreader roots, and rigging terminals.  If strands of a wire start to break, this will normally be where it emerges from the swage.

We service our winches at the beginning and end of each season.  Frequent servicing is important to their reliability and free-running, ensuring 100% performance with a minimum of unwanted friction.

There are two things that ensure the integrity of a boat’s standing rigging. The tuning must be correct so that the spar is properly supported.  Poorly adjusted standing rigging can impair performance and handling, along with threaten the security of the rig.

Next a visual check for hairline cracks that can cause corrosion.  Stainless steel rigging wire should be inspected at the ends, including the swages that join the wire to its terminals, spreader roots, and rigging terminals.  If strands of a wire start to break, this will normally be where it emerges from the swage.


Spreaders should be checked to ensure the outer ends are smooth and that the roots are securely attached to the mast, with no movement.  Alway be on the lookout for chafe or other problems on the halyard or furling genoas and the boom topping lift.  Don’t assume that the halyard sheaves are running smoothly, lubricate them with silicon spray when needed.

Rigging terminals are designed to articulate so that all the components – toggles, bottlescrews, swage terminals and the wire itself – line up perfectly, thus transferring the considerable loads smoothly through the system. A wire that bends as it leaves the swage is a sure sign that something is off.

Spreaders should be angled such that the load imposed by the shroud is exactly along the line of the spreader.  In most cases they should be angled slightly upwards, especially with single-spreader rigs. Anything else, particularly droopy spreaders, means the load from the shroud will tend to tear the spreader root away from the mast.
Spreaders should be checked to ensure the outer ends are smooth and that the roots are securely attached to the mast, with no movement.  Alway be on the lookout for chafe or other problems on the halyard or furling genoas and the boom topping lift.  Don’t assume that the halyard sheaves are running smoothly, lubricate them with silicon spray when needed.

Rigging terminals are designed to articulate so that all the components – toggles, bottlescrews, swage terminals and the wire itself – line up perfectly, thus transferring the considerable loads smoothly through the system. A wire that bends as it leaves the swage is a sure sign that something is off.

Spreaders should be angled such that the load imposed by the shroud is exactly along the line of the spreader.  In most cases they should be angled slightly upwards, especially with single-spreader rigs. Anything else, particularly droopy spreaders, means the load from the shroud will tend to tear the spreader root away from the mast.


You can dramatically increase the life of your sails by giving them proper attention throughout the year.  Some things to keep in mind:  Adjust leech lines to stop the trailing edge of the sail vibrating or flapping, which can cause a lot of damage quickly.

Check for damage to stitching and chafe damage in way of the spreaders, shrouds, guardrails, and stanchions.  Periodically check the condition of the leech of each sail and the inner end of batten pockets.

Reef when appropriate – carrying too much sail will stretch the cloth, while de-powering in gusts will result in flogging the sail.   Relax the halyard and outhaul tension after sailing.   Don’t motorsail for long periods with the mainsail flapping.

You can dramatically increase the life of your sails by giving them proper attention throughout the year.  Some things to keep in mind:  Adjust leech lines to stop the trailing edge of the sail vibrating or flapping, which can cause a lot of damage quickly.

Check for damage to stitching and chafe damage in way of the spreaders, shrouds, guardrails, and stanchions.  Periodically check the condition of the leech of each sail and the inner end of batten pockets.

Reef when appropriate – carrying too much sail will stretch the cloth, while de-powering in gusts will result in flogging the sail.   Relax the halyard and outhaul tension after sailing.   Don’t motorsail for long periods with the mainsail flapping.


For us, early in the season is the best time to check that all the safety kits are in good order.  Common problems include defunct lifebuoy lights, lifejackets with inflation cylinders that are not fully screwed in place and aged fire extinguishers.

We check that the life-raft has been serviced and is up-to-date and that lifejackets have been serviced within the last 12 months and are equipped with spray-hoods, lights and crotch straps. Flares, EPIRBs and the contents of first aid kits need to be replaced at regular intervals. 
For us, early in the season is the best time to check that all the safety kits are in good order.  Common problems include defunct lifebuoy lights, lifejackets with inflation cylinders that are not fully screwed in place and aged fire extinguishers.

We check that the life-raft has been serviced and is up-to-date and that lifejackets have been serviced within the last 12 months and are equipped with spray-hoods, lights and crotch straps. Flares, EPIRBs and the contents of first aid kits need to be replaced at regular intervals. 

Boat batteries and charging systems are checked several times throughout the year, specifically at the beginning of our season.  We check that both the service and engine start banks are holding a good charge.  At the same time, we check navigation lights, autopilots and electric windlasses.
Hope this has been helpful.  Have a great sailing season!!
Boat batteries and charging systems are checked several times throughout the year, specifically at the beginning of our season.  We check that both the service and engine start banks are holding a good charge.  At the same time, we check navigation lights, autopilots and electric windlasses.
Hope this has been helpful.  Have a great sailing season!!

#TheYachtieLife
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“Believe me my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
-Kenneth Grahame





“Believe me my young friend, there is nothing – absolutely nothing – half so much worth doing as simply messing about in boats.”
-Kenneth Grahame



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AUTHOR
Andrea Petralia
Though few things in life are ever perfectly and consistently balanced, Andrea has made it her daily endeavor to weave together the strands of self-care, organic food, and mindful living. You can often find her reaching out and encouraging others to join in the journey toward self-health, and sharing poignant stories along the way.
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AUTHOR
Andrea Petralia
Though few things in life are ever perfectly and consistently balanced, Andrea has made it her daily endeavor to weave together the strands of self-care, organic food, and mindful living. You can often find her reaching out and encouraging others to join in the journey toward self-health, and sharing poignant stories along the way.
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